La Famiglia Manno

Part Seven: Concetta & Francesco

Concetta, the second oldest of the six Manno children, was born in Palermo on September 14, 1931. She was more social than her sisters. She had a beautiful smile.

In 1945, when Concetta's older sister Rosa became engaged to Agostino Gabriele, a party was held in their honor. There was a young mafioso at the party, with his uncle, who had taken a liking to 14-year-old Concetta. Concetta's son, Joe Sanfilippo, heard his mother's version of what transpired.

My grandfather told me mom, you cannot dance because those people are here. So, of course, being fourteen and not listening, she gets up and starts dancing. And this guy told his uncle, that’s the one I want.

He goes and grabs my mom and everyone jumps up. He was going to kidnap her. My grandfather gets her away. There’s turmoil. The police show up. Of course, no one could say anything. You’d be asking for trouble.

So my mom was in hiding for seven years. She had to not be in public. Or if she was, she had to have a lot of people around her, because they were trying everything they could to take her. My Aunt Anna and my Aunt Rosa were kind of her bodyguards.

Concetta Manno at age 14

Concetta lived across the street from the man she would marry — Francesco "Franco" Sanfilippo, who was two years her senior. Joe Sanfilippo said his parents didn't really date.

Being across the street from each other, my mom and dad used to look at each other from the balconies. There was no dating. If my dad went inside, they would be able to hold hands for a few minutes, and my grandpa would say, "OK, that’s enough, that’s enough." or "Her hand’s going to fall off. What are you doing?"

That was their courtship. It wasn’t much. There were no dinners out. There were no movies.

Franco Sanfilippo	Concetta Manno

Francesco Sanfilippo and Concetta Manno were married in Palermo in 1957.

Franco & Concetta Sanfilippo, Palermo 1957

The Sanfilippo's first born child, Mario, died at 20 months. Their son Paul was born in 1961, Connie in 1963 and Joe in 1966.

Franco Sanfilippo was a Morse code operator in the Italian Navy. He used that skill to get a job at the Giornale di Sicilia newspaper in Palermo, where he eventually became a journalist.

Franco Sanfilippo (third from right) at the Giornale di Sicilia

By 1960, Concetta's parents and siblings had all immigrated to America. She stayed behind in Palermo because her husband Franco had a good job. But she wasn't happy. Joe Sanfilippo wasn't born until 1966, but he heard the story many times.

In Italy, you’re a journalist — you’re a big shot. It’s not like here in American. My dad was well respected in Italy.

So my dad was coming home from being a journalist every day, and my mom would be sad and crying. My dad finally said, "Honey, I can’t do this. We can’t live like this. What’s it going to take to make you happy?" And she said, "I want my family." So he said, "Pack your bags. Let’s go." And that’s why we came to the United States. I was one when we came in 1967 on the Michelangelo ship.

Franco, Joe & Concetta Sanfilippo (back) Connie & Paul Sanfilippo (front)

When Franco Sanfilippo arrived in the United States, he was 37 and barely spoke any English. Concetta's family were all in the restaurant business, so he followed suit.

Paul Manno got him a job as an assistant waiter at Tony's. He worked there for a week or two, but didn't like the environment and left.

He worked lunchtime at the Crest House and dinner for this brothers-in-law, Agostino Gabriel and John Mineo, at Agostino's on the Hill. In 1973, he had a chance to buy the restaurant, before it was sold to Giovanni Gabriele.

They wanted me to take over the place. But the kids were too young. I didn't want any headaches. I wanted to go home at night and put my head on the pillow and sleep. Maybe I made a mistake. I don't know.

Instead, Franco followed John Mineo to West County and was the manager of John Mineo's for a number of years.

While still at Mineo's, Franco opened a grocery store on the Hill, on the corner of Marconi and Bishoff, called Franco's Italian Confectionery. The space would become Vitale’s Bakery. When he added a carryout lunch with a couple of small tables, he called it Franco’s Italian Lunch.

Franco & Concetta Sanfilippo Franco's Italian Confectionery, 2132 Marconi

In early 1977, Franco put his grocery store up for sale and started looking for a restaurant. He found one in Cahokia, Illinois. Joe Sanfilippo was 11 years old at the time.

There was an unwritten rule that you don’t get too close to family and my dad was not a wave maker. Creve Coeur was Agostino’s and Mineo’s was at Mason and Clayton. My dad said I don’t want to step on anyone’s toes.

He had looked in Little Rock, Arkansas. We took a trip there. He looked at different places. And then he found this one in Cahokia. It was called Antonio’s. He said, screw it, we’ll buy this one. It was right across the street from Cahokia High School.

Antonio's - Cahokia, Illinois

In 1978, Franco's Restaurant opened at 711 Range Lane in Cahokia, Illinois. Franco didn't want his restaurant to be known as a pizza parlor.

This used to be a pizza place, so lots of people came here for pizza. I gave them pizza. Then I would ask if they would like to try toasted ravioli or chicken Parmesan. I would make up a sample portion. They tried it. They liked it.

My regular customers now eat everything on the menu, or they may call in advance to ask for something special. One friend comes in once a week and he wants something new every time. When I have a little extra time in the afternoons, I make different things — pesto with fresh basil, pasta with mussels, stuffed squid, fresh fried artichokes — whatever is in season, whatever is quality, whatever I have time to put together.

I was the oldest and learned to cook pasta at my mother’s knee when I was 10 years old. We use strong flavors in Sicily — extra virgin olive oil and tomato concentrate are heavier than in the North. But for our customers, we lighten the flavors a little.

Franco's regularly drew customers from St. Louis, including Joe Pollack, who raved about the restaurant in his January 9, 1986 St. Louis Post-Dispatch review.

Franco's is in Cahokia, 10 or 15 minutes from downtown St. Louis. Take Illinois Route 3 south past the smokestacks of Sauget, turn left at the Amoco station and go to the fourth stop sign, where Huck's is at the corner. Turn right, and Franco's is about halfway down the block on the right, directly across the street from Cahokia High School.

Franco, Concetta & Joe Sanfilippo Franco's in Cahokia

There's a roadhouse atmosphere, created, I think, by the fact that the dining area is one large room, but that takes nothing away from the excellence of the food or the helpfulness of the staff, which is largely made up of Franco Sanfilippo's children. Mrs. Sanfilippo is the heart of the kitchen, where she does much of the cooking and all of the baking, including bread, cannoli and some spectacular cookies, which I sampled when I got Christmas leftovers.

Anna LoCoco, Franco & Connie Sanfilippo Franco's Dining Room

The menu is simple, with a selection of veal, chicken and fish dishes, some with the same sauces, plus pasta and pizza and a handful of appetizers. The people at Franco's obviously prepare what they're comfortable with, and they prepare it in glorious style.

The toasted ravioli is excellent, but two of the appetizers – peperonata and caponata – are memorable. They're based on peppers and eggplant, respectively, with the vegetable roasted and then combined with tomatoes, garlic (lots of garlic), olive oil and capers. Both are served chilled, and both are superb blends of flavors and textures. With a chunk of fresh, crusty Italian bread, they're the ideal beginning to a meal.

Franco's pastas are al dente (slightly chewy) and prepared to order, so one has the opportunity to eat a little more garlic-cheese bread while waiting. The sauces were perfectly made, with all the flavors blending in orchestral style, and the pastas themselves were cooked just right, which can be tricky with something like the thin, flat linguine noodle.

Given the wintry weather, we sampled a pizza on one visit. Franco's features lots of cheese and a semi-soft, medium crust (not flat thin, nor pan-style, but somewhere in between). I found it splendid, hot and rich and extremely flavorful.

When simple, hearty, Sicilian style fare is what you have in mind, Franco's is an outstanding place to find it.

Franco's Pizza

In the summer of 1987, Franco moved his restaurant to Belleville.

When I bought the restaurant my goal was to make a good Italian restaurant in Cahokia. I discovered a lot of people from Belleville came here, then everybody kept asking me to move to their area. I guess it is time to move now because everybody knows me.

According to Joe Sanfilippo, the move had more to do with a disagreement with their landlord in Cahokia, as well as the threat that the Poplar Street bridge was going to shut down for construction.

Fracno's - 7000 West Main, Belleville

Franco's restaurant thrived in Belleville, as it had in Cahokia.

We make wonderful pepperonata. It is a combination of green, yellow and red peppers that we cook in cheese sauce, tomatoes and onions This is our own family recipe from Italy.

Linguini alla Crema di Mare is one of our most popular dishes. It's a combination of crabmeat, shrimp and clams with fresh mushrooms.

And for people who don't like Italian food, we have steaks and seafood. We serve red snapper, swordfish and Norwegian salmon.

Everybody working here is from my family. My children all work here and my wife, Concetta, she bakes the bread and desserts.

Connie, Joe, Concetta, Franco, Anna (Paul's wife) & Paul Sanfilippo Franco's in Belleville, 1987

Joe Sanfilippo got his start in the restaurant business at the age of eleven.

When my father was working at Mineo’s, my mom would help my Aunt Rosa at Agostino’s on Olive. In 1977, it was New Year’s Eve, my Aunt Rosa called and said, "Oh my god, we’re so busy. What’s Joe doing? Can he help out?"

I’m in grade school. He was my godfather and you can’t say no to your godfather. So I helped out on New Year’s Eve. Little did I know that was the beginning of my career. Because then it became, "It’s Tuesday. If we’re really busy, can Joe work? It’s Thursday, It’s too busy. Can Joe work?" And all I wanted to do was come home, get a cold doughnut and ride my bike up and down the street looking for girls! People were very nice. I’d make a ton of side tips because I was young.

When I was 13, I went to Italy with my 18-year-old brother. Miraculously, my father allowed us to stay. We went to school six days a week and I went to culinary school three nights a week. I stayed there for two years.

Joe Sanfilippo at age 15 Franco's in Cahokia

On a Saturday morning in 1990, an argument and a subsequent telephone call changed the trajectory of Joe Sanfilippo's life.

We were in Belleville. One day my sister and I were arguing about how much a billboard costs. So she calls the phone number on the billboard. This gentleman answers and she said, "I’m curious how much a billboard costs."

He said, "I really don’t know. I normally don’t answer calls. I’m just here doing paperwork. Who is this?"

She said, "My name is Connie Sanfilippo. I work for my dad. He owns a restaurant called Franco’s."

He said, "Franco’s in Cahokia? Where did you guys go? I’ve been looking for you? This is Charles Drury. We’re going to come see you. What’s your address?"

He came in with Mrs. Drury that night and had dinner. My mom and dad were in Italy. We didn’t know who he was. He said, "I’m Charles Drury. Would your dad be interested in opening a restaurant in St. Louis?"

I was all ecstatic. We called my dad and he said, "No, no, no! I’m done. I don’t want to do it again."

So I sat on it and thought about it. I called Mr. Drury and said, "My dad’s not interested, but I would love to do it."

So I came in. And we talked. And we talked again. And the next thing you know, it happened. I had a 20-bullet-point contract and a handshake. And that’s how Sanfilippo’s came about.

In February of 1991, J.F. Sanfilippo's opened at 705 North Broadway, adjacent to the Drury Inn in downtown St. Louis.

J.F. Sanfilippo's, 705 North Broadway

An article in the the May 20, 1991 St. Louis Post-Dispatch spelled out the incredulity of Joe Sanfilippo's opening night.

What's wrong with this picture? Here's an attractive new downtown restaurant with a seating capacity of 120-plus next to the expanding convention center. Here are two handsome rooms of tables covered with white linen and walls hung with Italian Renaissance reproductions. Here's a wine salesman trying to pin down the number of bottles of Dom Perignon the proprietor wants to stock in his cellar.

And here’s a 24-year-old man running the show. Wearing a red Franco’s Italian Restaurant T-shirt, checked chef’s pants and serious 5 o’clock shadow, he’s orchestrating the circus of craftsmen, cooks and purveyors to the tune of opening on time — this evening.

He admits feeling a little apprehensive about being in business for himself for the first time. "My mother and father are excited for me," he says. "But it's still hard, because I've always been with my family."

Joe Sanfilippo at age 24

Joe Pollack's October 9, 1991 St. Louis Post-Dispatch review disclosed that Joe wasn't without family for long.

One advantage of being on this job a long time has been watching a second generation of young restaurateurs entering the business, usually by joining the family for a while, and then branching out on their own. Most of them are talented and ambitious, and usually wise enough to keep tabs on what Mom and Dad are doing, and how they are doing it.

Especially wise is young Joe Sanfilippo, son of Franco and Concetta Sanfilippo, who run Franco's in Belleville. He did his apprenticeship there, and obviously learned well — because when he opened J.F. Sanfilippo's in the Drury Hotel downtown, he not only brought Mom's recipes, he brought Mom.

Concetta Sanfilippo is an absolute whiz in the baking department. Her dinner rolls, sometimes stuffed with ham and cheese, sometimes just seed-spotted and crusty outside, soft and delicious inside, are spectacular, and when it comes to dessert — oops, sorry, no dessert until you've finished your meal, including the vegetables.

Sanfilippo's is a new downtown establishment, and two recent visits provided exemplary meals. The cuisine is very Italian, on the Sicilian side, and almost everything was freshly cooked, piping hot and tasty.

But there was room for dessert, especially for Concetta Sanfilippo's cannoli, which are deserving of a place in the cannoli hall of fame. The ricotta cheese filling is delicious and sweet, but not too sweet, and the crust — ah, the crust — is crisp and crumbly and flaky, all at the same time, with a delightful flavor of its own. Spectacular cannoli.

Concetta Sanfilippo

On July 3, 1992, Franco Sanfilippo closed his restaurant in Belleville. The prior January, he had been diagnosed with cancer, a mesothelioma.

In a July 27, 1986 St. Louis Post-Dispatch interview, Franco told Patricia Horrigan:

My customers are happy. We treat them as friends, they feel as if they are at home. Sometimes they want me or my kids to sit down at the table and talk with them, and we do. I love what I do. You don't have to die on the job — life is too short.

Francesco Sanfilippo died on November 28, 1992 at the age of 62.

Concetta & Franco Sanfilippo

Joe Sanfilippo's downtown restaurant continued to thrive, and as had been the case with his father's restaurants, it was a family affair. Paul helped in the kitchen, Concetta and Paul's wife, Anna, were responsible for the homemade breads and desserts, and Connie was the banquet manager.

On October 11, 2011, Joe Sanfilippo opened Filippo's Italian Kitchen & Bar at 120 Chesterfield Valley Drive in Chesterfield.

Filippo's, 120 Chesterfield Valley Drive

The space had a sleek interior, with a smaller menu than downtown. Joe oversaw the new restaurant's operation, while his brother Paul and other family members remained downtown.

Joe quickly learned that his Chesterfield restaurant had a different clientele.

When I first opened in the Valley, I was overwhelmed because everybody’s regulars. Everybody comes in once a week, twice a week or whatever. When I was downtown, I may see you, get to know you and then you’re gone. I may see you next year at the next convention. So the only people I really got to know were the locals for lunch.

When I came to the Valley, all of a sudden I’m seeing all these faces and I’m overwhelmed — the anxiety of the restaurant opening, the environment, new staff, new this and that. So one couple was at the bar, it was a slower night, and I said, "Hi guys, how are you?"

"Good, how are you, Joe?"

And it came out of my mouth: "First time here?" They were so offended.

Joe closed J.F. Sanfilippo's on December 31, 2918, after almost 28 years of service.

We closed downtown because it needed a facelift, blah, blah, and I didn’t want to invest anymore money. Downtown, it was hard to find employees, harder than Chesterfield. So we parted ways with the Drurys, which are first class, greatest people in the world.

J.F. Sanfilippo's adjacent to the Drury Inn

Concetta Manno Sanfilippo died on October 13, 2020 at the age of 89.

At my mom’s funeral, one of my words were, "You know a parent has done a great job when every child thinks they’re their favorite." But then I followed up with, "But everybody knows I really was."

My mom was so damn cute. She would make the bread downtown and the cookies for Christmas. And because I opened a second location, we weren’t together every day. Mom and I just had a very, very special bond.

Filippo's closed on May 22, 2021, and Joe Sanfilippo got out of the restaurant business.

Joe & Concetta Sanfilippo, 2018

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