Cicero's

Shawn Edward Jacobs was born in St. Louis in 1942. His father operated a kosher market and as a kid Jacobs helped him cut meat.

In 1972, Jacobs opened his own kosher style restaurant and deli at 1910 McKelvey, which he called The Pampered Palate. It offered late night hours, late night entertainment and attracted nationally known celebrities. But by the end of 1974, The Pampered Palate had closed.
 

Shawn Jacobs (right) and Fabian (center) at The Pampered Palate
St. Louis Jewish Light, Nov 29, 1972

In 1974, Jacobs was partners in another short lived venture, the Venus Health Spa in St. Charles. It also offered late night entertainment; it was raided by St. Charles sheriff deputies after the St. Charles Bible Church lodged a complaint. Jacobs and his partners were charged with operating a bawdy house. They closed their massage parlor and were granted probation.

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In August of 1977, the Maryland Cafe in University City closed. The restaurant had been a fixture on the southeast corner of Delmar and Melville for over 35 years. An August 12, 1977 article about the closure included the following:

The Maryland is being sold to Shawn Jacobs, a restaurateur who plans to convert it and the building next door into an Italian restaurant.

Maryland Cafe, 6510 Delmar, 1965

Shawn Jacobs opened his Italian restaurant at 6510 Delmar towards the end of 1977. His neighbor to the east was Joe Edwards, whose Blueberry Hill had opened in the 6504 space in 1972.
 

Blueberry Hill, 6504 Delmar, 1975

Jacobs called his new restaurant Cicero's. He lamented naming his deli The Pampered Palate — a name that baffled diners.

Nobody knew what a palate was. They thought it was a dog-grooming place for poodles. So when I opened this place, I wanted something short and simple.

A friend told me Cicero is this town outside of Chicago that is known for its mob connections, so it had that Italian influence. It wasn’t until 10 years later that I learned who Cicero was.

Cicero's, 6510 Delmar, circa 1980

When Cicero's first opened, it featured pizza and beer and Jacobs in the kitchen cooking. Mike Lipel, who worked for the Riverfront Times, recalled, "He ran the place, he did dishes, he did it all. Somehow he came up with all the recipes. I don't think he was a cook by trade, but he was a cook by necessity."

Jacobs advertised Cicero's as the "Late, Late Dining Spot" — it was open until 3 a.m. on weekends. Early on, he made some key hires, including a cook from Talayna’s who shared the restaurant’s famed pizza dough recipe. But the key to Jacobs' early success was not his food.
 

1992 Cicero's Menu
(click image to enlarge)

Karen McVicker started working at Cicero's not long after it opened. In 1984, then a 17-year-old waitress, she convinced Jacobs to open a music venue in the restaurant's basement.

"When we started, we just had music on Fridays and Saturdays," said McVicker. "The longer we stuck with it, the-better the caliber of talent became. We kept adding days to our music program." Eventually, there was live music seven nights a week.

McVicker became the manager of Cicero's Basement Bar. The cramped, low-ceilinged space, with its sweating pipes and perpetual stench of cigarette smoke, possessed the charm of a war bunker. Its walls were plastered with posters and bumper stickers of the bands that played there.

But the ambience was part of the draw. Cicero's hosted alternative rock’s most important acts. It was a linchpin in the local rock scene, with a stellar national reputation. Bands longed for the opportunity to play in the cramped basement — and a chance to knock back a free Cicero's pizza.

The Basement Bar was open for a few years when Jacobs added a stage — a six-inch high, carpeted riser that offered the crowd a slightly better view but forced singers to duck beneath the ceiling beams.

"I was so proud of that little stage," McVicker said. "I was showing it to Alex Chilton (the first performer to use it) when he stubbed out his cigarette on it. I was just crushed. Of course, by the end of the week there were cigarette burns all over it."
 

Uncle Tupelo, June 30, 1989
Cicero's Basement Bar

In January of 1996, owners Paul and Suzanne Schoomer announced that Paul's Books, a mainstay at the intersection of Kingsland and Delmar in the University City Loop since 1973, would be closing.

On April 28, 1997, Shawn Jacobs opened Cicero's Restaurant and Entertainment Plex in the Paul's Books space, relocating his restaurant two blocks west of its original location.
 

Cicero's Restaurant and Entertainment Plex, 6691 Delmar

Jacobs' new venue was a rambling, 7,000-square-foot space (roughly double the former site's size) that included a dining room with an open kitchen, a game area with four pool tables, two full-sized bars and a carpeted music room with 12-foot ceilings, a raised stage and a state-of-the-art lighting system.

We've moved on to bigger and better. I'm doing things I always wanted to do, but never had the space to do them in.

I think I'll be attracting more of the West County crowd that used to come by once in a while to the old place, but had a tough time parking. We've got plenty of parking here. 300 spaces in the back. And lots of room inside.

Cicero's menu expanded along with its space. In addition to pizzas and burgers, the new menu included multiple chicken, beef and seafood entrees, along with extensive pasta offerings. The cheese baked alamara was one of the most popular pastas on its menu. The salmon wrap was also a favorite.
 

2000 Cicero's Menu
(click image to enlarge)

Cicero’s also had a new dessert display case. Jacobs loved dessert. His display case was the envy of his neighbors — and a commercial success. The apple rum raisin bread pudding was a best seller.
 

Cicero’s dessert display case

In March of 2001, a fired destroyed Cicero's kitchen and caused water damage to the dining and bar areas. Authorities blamed faulty wiring in an electric meat slicer. After repairs, the restaurant reopened in August of 2001.

The remodeling brought about changes, including color. It was everywhere — purple ceilings; yellow, melon and aqua walls. The pool tables were pink.

"Let's go for some wild colors," Jacobs said. "Otherwise, people won’t notice that there is anything different."
 

Cicero's Dining Room
 
Cicero's Game Area

Cicero’s distinguished itself as home to the region’s best beer selection. It served 53 draft beers and 149 varieties of bottled beer. Every Wednesday, beer lovers attended a free beer school, where brewers explain the nuances of their pilsners, stouts and ales.

Jacobs was just as happy with iced tea.

Me, I’m not much of a drinker, but I saw 10 years ago that the kids were very open to trying new beers, so we thought we’d give this a try.

The beer has been like everything else. You try and see if it works. If it doesn’t, you move on. Fortunately, most of what we have tried has worked.

Shawn Jacobs at Cicero's, 2007

Shawn Jacobs died on June 10, 2016 at the age of 73.

Blueberry Hill owner Joe Edwards remembered Jacobs as "an integral part of the Loop."

I liked working with him. You never had to guess what he was thinking, because he would let you know it, and that’s an admirable quality I think. He and I got along very well. We wouldn’t agree with every single thing, but we would always tell each other what we thought about things and then move on.

He was just a good-hearted person who worked very hard, and he really cared about the Loop.

2017 Cicero's Menu
(click image to enlarge)

Jacobs' children, Chad and Trisha, took over ownership of Cicero's after his death. On June 20, 2017, they announced that Cicero's was closing.

It’s with an extremely heavy heart that I inform you all that our last day of business will be Sunday, June 25th. After nearly forty years of serving up some of St. Louis’ best pizza, and beer, among other things, we’ve determined it no longer makes sense to continue. Our father, Shawn, put his heart and soul into a place that has become a St. Louis institution. He, and our mom, Alice, sacrificed everything our family had, and took a huge risk, to open Cicero’s. We couldn’t be prouder of them for their accomplishments.

We want to thank everyone who has patronized Cicero’s over the years. You all have played an integral role in making the restaurant a St. Louis landmark. We would also like to thank all of our employees who made our successes possible. Everyone connected to Cicero’s has had some amazing times; some good, and some bad. We hope that you can appreciate all of those times, and recognize the influence our family had in your life. That would mean the world to us.

Trisha and Shawn Jacobs at Cicero's, 2007

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