Watercolor by Marilynne Bradley

Chez Leon

Chez Leon opened at 4580 Laclede Avenue in the Central West End on November 4, 1999 in a space that had housed Martin’s Variety Store for decades. Two men gave birth to the restaurant – Eddie Neill, who owned Café Provencal, and Leon G. Bierbaum. But Chez Leon was indeed "Leon's House" – Bierbaum bought out Neill in 2002.

Leon Bierbaum was born on a chicken farm in Marthasville, Missouri. After a move to the Phoenix area in his early teens, where Steven Spielberg was a classmate at Scottsdale middle school, Bierbaum attended Washington University. As most Wash U students gravitated toward jeans in the mid-1960s, Bierbaum showed up for class in a camel hair sport coat, neatly pressed slacks, shirt and tie.
 

Leon Bierbaum was born in Marthasville, Missouri Leon Bierbaum, 2003

Bierbaum was a veteran in the restaurant, hotel and wine business. He was a well-known waiter at the Cheshire Inn and the concierge at the Hotel Majestic. He was the manager and wine expert at Cheshire Cellars and at the last 9-0-5 liquor store on North Euclid. He worked at the original Tony’s on North Broadway, at Anthony’s, at Café de France and at Café Napoli. Bierbaum traveled extensively throughout Europe, particularly in France. Leon Bierbaum was a true Francophile.

Chez Leon was very much a true French bistro, starting with the brightly painted red-orange façade and the outdoor seating. On summer evenings, the big French doors were flung open and the sidewalk tables multiplied.
 

Inside, the dining room’s butter-colored walls displayed French prints and paintings, while high ceilings and the large French doors lent an airy feel to the room. The dark wood of the floors, Brentwood chairs and mirrored banquettes contrasted with the crisp, white table linens. The handsome bar was in an adjacent room. The décor had the air of understated elegance, right down to the hat racks above the seats.
 

Bierbaum, with his silver hair and always impeccable style, was a fixture at the front of the restaurant, taking care to personally greet every newcomer and regular who strolled through the door. It was like walking into his home.

On Sundays, a Washington University medical student could sometimes be heard playing the piano at the front of the restaurant. On other nights, "The Poor People of Paris" were heard singing French songs from overhead speakers.

Chez Leon’s menu emphasized foods from the northern part of France, and changed from night to night, depending on availability, season and desire. The menu covered five areas – appetizers, soups and salads, entrees, a cheese course and dessert. All offerings were individually priced. However, a dinner of three courses could be composed, initially for $28. And there were more than 100 French wines to choose from.
 

2001 2003 2007
Chez Leon Menus
(click image to enlarge)

Popular dishes included the escargot, which arrived bubbling in pools of garlic butter, lightly flavored with fennel, the salade Lyonnaise, a green salad tossed with a mild vinaigrette and fat pieces of bacon, topped by a poached egg, its interior still runny, and the steak frites, a six ounce strip steak, perfectly cooked to order, with house-made fries that were crispy-chewy and full of flavor. A favorite dessert was the tarte tatin, an upside-down apple tart with caramelized apples on the bottom and the pastry top properly brown and crisp, all under a scoop of high-quality vanilla ice cream.
 

Chez Leon's Escargot Chez Leon's Steak Frites

While he may have been a Francophile, Bierbaum was firmly rooted in his hometown of Marthasville. He would proudly bring in tomatoes and peaches from his aunt's Marthasville garden. Marthasville white asparagus and strawberries also found their way onto the Chez Leon menu.

When Chez Leon opened in 1999, Claude Courtoisier, a native of Grenoble, was the chef de cuisine. But after Bierbaum bought out his partner in early 2002, he hired a talented new chef de cuisine, Eric Brenner, who made his mark on Chez Leon’s frequently changing menu of classic French dishes and provincial specialties.

In early 2004, Brenner opened his own restaurant, Moxy, next door to Chez Leon. With the help of his sous chef, Joe Herbert, Brenner did the prep work for Chez Leon in the morning, then moved to Moxy for lunch and dinner.
 

Eric Brenner, Leon Bierbaum, Nelu dos Sandos,
Haris Zukanović (September 24, 2003)
Moxy, 4584 Laclede Avenue

In the fall of 2009, Bierbaum closed his Central West End restaurant; he sold it to Gerard Craft, who reopened it as Brasserie by Niche. (Soon after, Moxy became the new home of Craft's Taste.) And at the end of 2009, Bierbaum reopened Chez Leon in Clayton at 7927 Forsyth Boulevard.

The relocated Chez Leon lacked the whimsy and charm of the original, replacing it with a sleek dining room. Its dark walls were decorated with oil paintings and beveled mirrors. Tasseled drapes, a chandelier and an elaborate china cabinet added ornate flourishes.
 

Chez Leon, 7927 Forsyth Boulevard

The menu, under the direction of executive chef Colby Erhart, was much the same as it had been in the Central West End, complete with frog’s legs, escargot and steak frites. But Eric Brenner no longer managed the kitchen and longtime headwaiter Haris Zukanović hadn't made the trip west. Service was not the same. There were long waits to be seated and long waits between courses. Two-hour leisurely dinners turned into four-hour nightmares.

Bierbaum brought in veterans Marcel and Monique Keraval as chef de cuisine and maître d', but they were no more successful in reviving the new Chez Leon than they had been with their own Café de France when it moved to Clayton.
 

2012 Menu
(click image to enlarge)
 Marcel and Monique Keraval with
Leon Bierbaum at Chez Leon in Clayton

In May of 2012, Bierbaum suddenly closed Chez Leon for good. He explained, "This last year was particularly tough. Customer counts were down and what they ate and drank was down. Trying to stimulate business with Groupon-type offers did not help . . . customers seemed to come all at once, filling the place up, straining the level of service and the pacing of the meals. It was especially unfair to our full paying customers who got caught up in the middle of it." He added, "Business here was just never at the level that we thought it would be . . . I probably should have never left the Central West End."

Bierbaum continued to work in the hospitality industry. He was the concierge at the Gatesworth and worked the front of the house at Tony’s on weekends. But he was slowly succumbing to cancer.
 

Leon Bierbaum at Tony's

Leon Bierbaum died on May 2, 2016, the day before his 68th birthday. Gaunt with cancer, Bierbaum entertained a host of visitors at a South County hospice care facility during the last weeks of his life. The hospice played beloved big band music and opera for Bierbaum as he gradually slipped away.


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